Mumbai: A City That Changed All Our Preconceptions
Dan, our CEO, recently got back from an incredible trip from Mumbai to the Maldives and shares his personal travel experience in this blog.
Before this trip, we had plenty of preconceived ideas about Mumbai. The chaos, the crowds, the contrasts. But nothing prepares you for what it really feels like to arrive in a city this alive.
Flying Indigo from Manchester was surprisingly easy, and landing in Mumbai in the early hours was… an experience. The airport was buzzing, slightly chaotic, and we were greeted by two lovely guys who helped us through the busy arrival halls.
By the time we reached The Taj Mahal Palace Hotel, it was 5am. Exhausted, yes, but also incredibly excited. And the moment you step inside the Taj, it takes your breath away. The history, the architecture, the elegance. It is iconic for a reason. We had just a few hours before our first tour, so after a quick sleep we headed for breakfast at The Sea Lounge.
The Sea Lounge is like stepping back in time, an old, beautiful room overlooking the bay, with both à la carte options and a generous buffet. The Eggs Benedict and French Toast helped with the tiredness.
We had a driver, a total game changer in Mumbai, and he took us to Bandra West, a cool, leafy neighbourhood full of independent shops and creative energy. Our first official tour was that afternoon, the Dharavi Slum Tour with Farzan. This was the part of the trip we were most unsure about. What we thought we would see and what we actually saw were two totally different things.
Yes, there is poverty. But there is also incredible entrepreneurial spirit, thousands of micro-industries, and people who were warm, proud, and welcoming. These guys work up to twenty hours a day and six days a week. We left humbled and inspired. It was one of the most meaningful experiences of the entire trip.
That evening, we had a quiet dinner near the hotel and got an early night, because the next morning started at 5am with a Mumbai by Dawn tour. No, the guide was not called Dawn.Tired, but excited, we met our hilarious guide Aditya and driver for a whirlwind tour of Mumbai’s early morning markets. His Dad jokes were as bad as mine, but his guiding was brilliant, one of the best I have had.
We started at the fish market. Prepare yourself, it stinks. But it is also electric with energy. I have never seen anywhere as mad as this at 5am, apart from a few Manchester nightclubs. The men go out fishing, while the women run the businesses, and watching them negotiate, sort, and sell was incredible. The smell woke us up better than any coffee.
The fruit market helped the smell. A rainbow of fruits, some we had never seen before. Our guide taught us so much about local produce, pricing, and culture. Next stop was the newspaper sorting station, which was unexpectedly fascinating. So fast, so organised. We even grabbed a chai tea, delicious. If the fish market assaulted the senses, the flower market healed them. Bright, fragrant, beautiful. A photographer’s dream.
Pic: Local trade at the flower market
After the markets we returned to the hotel, then spent late morning wandering around South Mumbai (SoBo), admiring the stunning British colonial architecture… and yes, I even played cricket with some locals!
Pic: Me playing cricket with the locals
Dinner that night was local and delicious, and we finally remembered to ask for non-spicy. Life-changing. The next day took us into the world of Bollywood, one of the only places in the world where you can see live filming. Glamorous stars, incredible sets, an enthusiastic host who is training to be an actor himself. It was such a unique experience and I would highly recommend.
Pic: Bollywood film set
We had a few hours at the Taj before the highlight of the evening: a cooking class and dinner in a local family home. We were welcomed warmly, taught to cook local dishes, and the family’s pride, kindness, and generosity made it unforgettable.
Pic: Indian cooking class and meal
Later that night we headed to North Mumbai, which felt like a totally different city, wealthier, glitzier, full of Bollywood stars and rooftop bars. We danced until the early hours (no pics of my dancing, don’t worry).
Our final day in Mumbai we had no tours booked, so we spent the day exploring at our own pace and visited the Palladium Mall (think Zara, H&M, international brands), then to Malabar Hill, where we wandered through local villages feeling safe, welcome, and fascinated by day-to-day life. The final stop was a trip to a local spice market near our hotel followed by a lovely dinner and early night, because our wake-up call was at 2:30am for our next destination… The Maldives!
And just like that, Mumbai came to an end. A city that overwhelmed, surprised, delighted, and inspired us in equal measure. Mumbai and its lovely people completely stole our hearts. We will absolutely be back.
Maldives
We arrived into Male from Mumbai (a mere two-hour direct flight) and had to wait around an hour for our sea plane transfer to our first stop, Noku, now recently part of IHG hotels, under its Vignette Collection. The sea plane journey is an experience itself. I didn’t realise how many islands there were in the Maldives (around 1,192 to be precise, of which 200 are inhabited) and the views are surreal.
After our warm greeting and a refreshing drink from a fresh coconut, we were taken to our overwater villa, which was once again a bit surreal. This was my first time in the Maldives, and I didn’t quite realise how different it was to anywhere I had been before. The villa was huge and beautifully designed and as a keen snorkeller the six small steps into the Indian Ocean were amazing.
Pic: Me with the Assistant Director of Sales
One thing people say about the Maldives is you will get bored after a few days. From day one I knew I wouldn’t, and I was right. After a tasty three-course lunch (they know how to feed you here), we went exploring the small island which is only 700 metres long with 20 beach villas and 30 overwater villas.
On day one we saw sharks, eagle rays and an abundance of beautiful fish. The beach, the sea and the snorkelling were stunning and unkept, but it was the marine life that had us constantly wanting more. Every time we went for a swim and a snorkel, we would see something different.
Pic: A map of the island
Outside of swimming and relaxing in your villa or walking on the pristine beaches, there isn’t a great deal to do, but that’s not a bad thing. If you like water sports, there are ample complimentary water sports and also lots of daily excursions, but in all honesty, it was nice just to relax into Maldivian life after the hustle and bustle of Mumbai.
We did have a lovely massage though at the spa, which is a nice option and very peaceful.
Noku only has two restaurants and one à la carte option, Thari, which is Thai/Japanese. The food is very good, but if you were coming for more than three nights, it could get a bit samey if you’re a foodie, although I believe they do themed nights too.
The resort really has Maldivian spirit, and this is encapsulated in the fact they have a traditional Maldivian house on site for you to learn about and the General Manager, Director of Sales and Assistant Director of Sales are all Maldivian, which is quite rare in the Maldives.
Pic: Traditional Maldivian House at Noku
After three nights at Noku, instead of going back to Male to get another sea plane, we hired a speed boat to go from Noku to our next resort, Amilla. The ride was a little bumpy in places and took around an hour and a half.
Amilla is much larger than Noku, around 60 acres, but 70% of the island remains undeveloped and it is very lush and natural. There are 67 villas in total, including 8 residences.
Lots of celebrities have stayed here and on arrival you can see why. It is not only naturally stunning, but it has an extremely premium feel to it.
We were taken to our overwater reef villa, room 122. Our bikes were already outside with our name on and I was wowed by the villa.
Pic: Our Reef Villa, second from the right Pic: Cycling around the island on our beach bikes
Amilla was hyped up to me before I came, and it did not disappoint. The island, the beaches, the reef, the food, the service, the activities, the cocktails, but most importantly the staff all exceeded expectations.
The staff made it extra special. Yes, it is their job, but they have such lovely people working for them and they were so friendly. Seventy per cent of the staff have to be Maldivian but they also have staff from all over the world too. Around 300 in total, 40 of which are gardeners.
In fact, they have their own farm and grow their own vegetables and certain fruits.
As part of my daily routine I played football with the staff at 5pm every day of my stay (and I needed the exercise after all the food so far) and they even organised a match for the guests versus the staff, although we had three staff on our team (we won 5-4 by the way).
The bikes really helped at Amilla, it was a decent-sized island, and we often enjoyed a bike ride in the morning or after a huge dinner. They have lots of different spots you can cycle to and choose to have a drink, a massage, a snorkel or just simply chill on one of the comfy day beds.
I must mention the main infinity pool here is probably the best pool I have ever experienced, massive in size and right on the beach. However, we rarely used it, choosing to relax in our reef villa and snorkel whenever we wanted.
The snorkelling. Wow. Every time we went out, we saw something different, from turtles, to nurse and blacktip reef sharks, to rays and huge schools of colourful fish. It was exhilarating and I was forever looking out for something new. One evening I spotted something at the bottom of our steps which looked like a cross between a spider and a crab. After some help from the diving team, we later found out it was a feather star.
Pic: Swimming with sharks right next to our villa Pic: School of fish next to the villa
The food at Amilla. Words can’t describe how good it is. I love coconuts and all of the food that contains coconut is made from the island’s 2,500 coconut trees. Coconut yoghurt, jam, lattes, ice cream, crepes, granola. I had it all. They even gave me some homemade coconut jam and granola to take home.
Pic: Breakfast with a view at Amilla
They have an Indian, Italian, Greek, Japanese and pizza restaurant, however they mix it up and also offer themed nights, which we experienced on the Friday with Maldivian night. They also have complimentary ice cream from 12 to 4pm which became part of our daily routine of bike ride, game of table tennis and ice cream. Next to the ice cream they also have a Mexican restaurant and beach bar open for lunch.
So, after five nights at Amilla and eight nights total in the Maldives what was my conclusion? It left me wanting more. I genuinely thought I would get bored, but if you love swimming, walking, cycling, water sports, spa, yoga, tennis, football, watching the local wildlife, there’s plenty to do.
Pic: A lone heron taking a moment
Twinning the Maldives with India was also the perfect mix of spices. The hustle and bustle, charm and friendliness of Mumbai and its lovely people mixed with the relaxation of the Maldives was the perfect blend.
